DIY: Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket install

DIY Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket for k20a3

Product: Hondata intake manifold gasket/phenolic spacer

Summary:
One of the main enemies of power on a combustion engine is heat. The purpose of the hondata img is to stop transfer of heat from the head of the engine onto the intake manifold by effectively reducing intake air temperature. Generally, these have been dyno tested to provide anywhere from 5-7 percent hp increase on average. With the gasket only being $50-$65, it is a fantastic bang for your buck, however any shop install charges usually negate that. This DIY will make the mod very cost friendly.

For more FAQ about the product refer to http://www.hondata.com/heatshieldgasket.html

Disclaimer: Don't attempt this install if you think you will be rushed. If following these guidelines expect a 2-3 hour install on average. It may go sooner, but there is no need to race through this install. If you have the stock intake box, this guide will not cover removal of it due to me having an aftermarket intake. The stock airbox removal will make the install a tad longer. If you want an ascii version of this, pm me your email and I'll send you a copy to print.

Difficulty level (1-10): 6

Make sure the car is completely cooled down and the valve cover is cold to the touch. I suggest letting it sit overnight.

Supplies:
- 1 Hondata intake manifold Gasket
- 3/8'' drive tq wrench
- Thin tipped flat head screwdriver
- 3'' ratchet extension
- 6'' ratchet extension
- 1 pair of needle nose pliers/ regular pliers
- 3/8'' drive Universal Joint (swivel socket)
- 2, 12mm open end wrench
- Sockets 10mm, 12mm (deep and shallow)
- 1 12mm snap on magnetic socket (bought online for $25) BEAUTIFUL
- 1 oem Throttle body gasket (completely optional. Part numbers in pics)
- 1 Jack + 2 Jack stands

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a7700/jack.jpg
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Procedure:
- Remove the I-vtec cover. 2 10mm bolts

- Remove the I-vtec cover brackets using a 3'' or 6'' extension. 2 10mm bolts

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...imgbracket.jpg

- Remove the intake tube and rubber coupling from the throttle body.

*Note: You may possibly have to remove the battery if you are using an intake other than AEM/Fujita. Battery cable nuts are 10mm.

- Unscrew the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the bracket and reposition them out of the way.

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- Remove the throttle cable bracket completely. 2 10mm bolts.

- Remove Evap hose, pcv hose, and other applicable hoses connected to the intake manifold with the thin tipped flathead screwdriver. Be careful not to tear them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7700/hoses.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ta7700/pcv.jpg

- Unclip the plugs from the top of all four fuel injectors and remove the ground bolt with a 10mm socket.

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- Use the flathead screwdriver to pull out the tabs and remove the plastic garnish on top of the fuel rail.

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- Remove the 10mm bolt on top of the throttle body that is connected to the garnish.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...arnishbolt.jpg

*Note: After pulling the complete garnish out of the way, screw the bolt back into the manifold so it isn't misplaced.

- Unplug the sensors on the throttle body. There are 4 total. The bottom plug is covered by a rubber grommet.

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- Remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts at each corner of the throttle body. All are 12mm.

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- Gently tug the throttle body and pull away from the intake manifold.

*Note: With an old rag and smidge of brake cleaner, wipe clean the insides of the intake manifold and throttle body. There are probably lots of carbon deposits. Now we must release the fuel pressure.

- Take the gas cap off and hang it on the door.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...700/gascap.jpg

*Note: If you do not turn the motor over, there will still be fuel in the rail. You can pull a certain fuse and turn the car over to remove that excess fuel, but I don't have my pdf file handy. My way will only make a tiny mess.

- With rag in hand, undo the green tabs to disconnect the hose from the fuel rail. Try to catch the gas that drips.

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- With a flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the 4 clips which connect the fuel rail to the injectors.

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- Remove the 2 12mm nuts remaining on the fuel rail.

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- Completely wrap the fuel rail in a rag and gently pull it back as not to damage the o-rings on the injectors.

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- Screw the two 12mm nuts back onto the manifold which you just removed. This is for memory in reassembly.

*Note: We are now ready to unbolt the manifold. There are 3 bolts across the bottom blindside and 2 bolts/2 nuts across the top. There is also a bracket which must be loosened from underneath the car so you can pull back the manifold from the engine. I will use my "special socket" on taking out the 12mm manifold bolts. The swivel socket is a must have.

- Remove all mentioned screws and bolts. 7 total, 12 mm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ifoldbolts.jpg

*Note: Difficult positioning makes removing two of the 3 bottom manifold bolts a complete pain in the ass. For the bottom center bolt, I used a long handle ratchet with a 6'' extension, a u-joint, and the 12mm socket. Get the socket connected to the bolt, and lay the extension directly against the manifold to try and get as straight a shot as possible. This will help from rounding off the bolt. For the bottom right, I use the same long handle ratchet and a 12 mm socket. I slipped it in behind the throttle cables and slowly (1-2 clicks per turn) I was able to loosent it enough to remove the bolt by hand with the socket. The bottom left was a straight shot using a ratchet with 6'' extension and 12mm socket.

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*Note: Removal of the studs is a necessity since the ep has zero room to work with between the radiator and intake manifold. The trick to removing them is known as the back-to-back method. Take the two nuts which you removed from the studs and place them back to back on the threads as shown in the picture below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../back2back.jpg

- Take the 2 12mm open end wrenches and tighten them together.

*Note: Once tight, you can use the wrench to turn the back nut counterclockwise. You will see the stud unscrewing as though the nuts were part of it. For installation of studs, do the same thing, but twist the front nut the opposite direction.

- Jack up the front of the car and place it on jackstands.

*Note: Right in front of the oilpan and next to the motor mount bracket is a 12mm bolt going into another big black bracket. This bracket runs all the way up to the manifold.

- Remove the 12mm bolt so we can jiggle the manifold away from the engine.

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- Remove the metal factory gasket and replace with the plastic hondata substitute using the studs to hold it in place.

*Note: make sure the coolant hole is on the right/driver side so it isn't put on backwards.

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- Use the back to back method in screwing the studs back into the head of the motor.

- Tighten the bolts along the edges of the manifold. The helms manual says 16ft/lb, but good luck getting your tq wrench to work in those places.

- Go underneath the car and put the 12mm screw back into the intake manifold bracket. If you want, you can go ahead and lower the car from the jackstands now.

*The manifold is now complete. We will go on to the fuel system.

- Place the empty fuel rail back on top of the injectors.

- Use the two nuts to screw the fuel rail in place so you can put the injector clips back on.

- Push down on the rail to get a good seat with all the clips. They will snap right back into place.

- Hook the fuel line back up to the green tab connector.

- Plug the clips back into the tops of the injectors and screw the gound 10mm screw back into the manifold.

- Take the screw you left in the manifold beside the throttle body and use it to put the garnish back along the fuel rail onto the pegs it snaps into.

- Replace the gas cap on the car.

* The fuel system is complete. Now on to the throttle body.

- Replace gasket, if desired, or slide Throttle body back into place.

- Plug in the 4 sensors and don't forget the one with the rubber grommet on the bottom.

- Screw the 2 nuts/2 bolts back onto the corners of the Throttle body to connect it with the intake manifold. 16ft/lb

* The throttle body assembly is complete.

- Bolt the throttle cable bracket back onto the throttle body. 2- 10mm screws

- Reposition the cables so they run around the spring and tighten the nuts back to the desired preset lengths. The "cruise control cable is black with black", and "throttle cable gold with gold" in case you forget which goes where.

- Slide the 4 hoses back onto the intake manifold and respective areas. Curvy hose by the valve cover, pcv on the bottom left, brake booster hose, and evap from the canister to the throttle body. Refer to the pics above.

- Install intake or rubber coupling back onto throttle body.

- Install battery, if needed.

- You are done, and ready to start the car. Since the fuel rail is empty, you will have to let it turn over for a few seconds before it will start. Don't worry, this is normal.

I'm glad to see this up. I've had a nextgear IMG in my hatch for over a month now waiting to be installed, I just don't have the tools are the time right now.