I could swear it is...I have used both on different swaps and not had any problems if I remember correctly.Originally Posted by 02nhbpep3
I could swear it is...I have used both on different swaps and not had any problems if I remember correctly.
yeah that ^^. I'm currently using a k24a1 waterpump on my k20a3 motor... it's a pain in the A$$ to change it.
And what do you mean by a pain in the ass to change? Did you have to mod anything for it to fit or are you just talking about changing the pump while the motor is still in the car?
My k24a1 came in today and the crank pulley has about half of the outter lip chipped off. Is this going to be a problem and if so can I just swap the a3 over to it?
I think he is talking about installing the W/P while the motor is still in.
how much would it cost to swap a k24a2 about?
I have been to manyyyy different forums researching on the setup I am trying to do and I haven't come close to finding the information I needed. In fact, many forums never even replied which has made me disappointed. Nonetheless, I am here because this thread has answered a lot of my questions but I would like to clarify on a few things. Hopefully someone can assist me.
Ok, here is what I have gathered so far from doing a my reading. I have a k24a4 long block. From what I understand, a K24A2 head vs K24A4 head stock to stock, you'll see significant changes as far as power numbers is concerned. So, when trying to output the most power based on stock head internals, it is wise to swap the k24a4 head for a k24a2 head due to the cam profile and better head airflow.
Now, if you are going to run a turbo setup and plan on changing the internals of both the block and the head, it makes sense to just keep the k24a4 head, right? If you do a port/polish/valvetrain job to the k24a4, you can expect the same performance as if the same is done to a k24a2 head, right? In summary, if staying stock and want to gain more performance, then a head swap is the way to go, if building the entire engine from head to bottom, then keeping the k24a4 head instead of swapping it out for a k24a2 head doesn't matter, right?
That is what I have gathered from my research so far, can someone shine some light on this subject? Am I on the right track?
I am also curious to know if I can order parts (internals) for a k20a3 head to use on a k24a4 head? The reason I ask is because I am having a hard time finding parts specifically for a k24a4 head. Everything seems to be for a k20a1/2/3.
Finally, if I am going to stick with a k24a4 head, should I still get the PRB ecu to use with a Kpro even if it is not a k20/24a2 head? Will the Kpro work with an A4 bottom and A4 head? I ask because I believe the PRB ecu controls a 3 lobe vtec system and obviously the a4 head is not a 3 lobe vtec system.
Last edited by unix4linux; 06-24-2010 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Forgot something
okay, i'll make this as short as possible. If you want to swap on an a2 head to your a4 block, you need to change out pistons and rods for either tsx or crv. Regardless, of whether you are going N/A or f/i. What you should do is post what your plans are. Staying na or going turbo or supercharger. Your stock k24a4 with the right turbo setup and fuel mods can hit 400+hp. If you want to go NA, then swap out the pistons and rods for preferably TSX ones and toss either a k24a2 or k20a2 head on. For the ecu, doesn't matter, K-Pro is k-pro, meaning you can start with a base calibration or create one from scratch to deal with the vtec system.
Last edited by BlownSi05; 10-17-2008 at 05:49 AM.
Ok, the plans are to turbo the engine. I am rebuilding the entire engine (bottom and head) with forged internals. Since porting the head won't cost me anything and since I will be changing the valvetrain on the head whether if it's an A2 or A4 head, I didn't think spending the extra money on an A2 head would be worth it.
I'm not sure about how good the A4 head is even with porting work. I know the A1 head is good stock, and can be made VERY good with porting but I seem to recall that there is some significant difference between the A1 and A4 heads but I can't recall the details. If I were doing what you are talking about I would see if I could pick up a K24A1 head since it is significantly better than the A4 head stock, and significantly cheaper than the A2 head.
The other issue is cam selection. There are some good cams available for the 2 lobe VTEC style head, but there are more and better available for the 3 lobe heads. It is going to depend on what your goals are I guess. You can make excellent power out of the 2 lobe VTEC, but if you are trying to squeeze every bit of power you can get then it might be worth it for the 3 lobe head.
Other than cams I think that most other head parts are interchangeable. Valves, valvesprings, retainers etc. So you can buy them for any K-series head. The K24A2 uses different valve seats but those are easy and cheap as long as you are prepared.
Lucid,
Thanks for your response and insight. I was under the impression that the heads A2/A4 are different because of the 3 lobe vs the 2 lobe and because of the air flow. I thought since I was going to build it, the air flow could be fixed with the porting and the internals with a selective set of good cams/valvetrain.
Since I am running turbo and looking for high gains, I didn't think running 2 lobe vs 3 lobe vtec would matter since vtec is more cost effective for NA applications. I just want to make sure that going through the hassle of a different head (A2) instead of using the A4 that I already have isn't going to be a waste of time/money. If all I am going to get is an extra 5-10 HP because I used an A2 head rather than an A4, does it even matter if I have a 600whp+ application?
In other words, to me it has to be more than just 5-10 hp. In fact, it has to due more with a combination of HP gains and reliability. If using A2 or A4 fully built head is going to give me both reliability and power, then it makes more sense...but just a few hp's, I don't know if it's worth it.
What do you think?
thanx man.... i got one question i am in the process of getting my k24a2 longblock the only thing that i am confused about is the ecu i have read all over and cant really find anything (not that i cant find anything i just cant find a specific answer). i am keeping the ep3 5 speed tranny cuz i am planning on boosting in the future. also any other helpful info that you know of with this swap would be helpful i have found some good threads on it but just a lil confused on the ecu problem
-Bizzle
i just got my k24a2 swap done 3 months ago. man, do i love this swap! but it cost me 4k though...
you need KPRO to run the k24a2. you can't use our stock ep3 ecu...either u send ur ecu out to get KPRO or buy a used/new one... the ep3 5 speed is better for boosting than would a 6 speed because of the gearing.
heres the stuff u need to get the swap done...
- k24a2
- KPRO
- K24 CRV side mount bracket
everything from ur ep3 motor will swap over... also, check out the swap threads, theres tons of info there..thats how i got most of my info. GL buddy
Why is it that the k24a2 where I live are cheaper than the k20a2's? I was gonna go k20 but if the k24a2 is cheaper I think I'll go that route.
K20A2 only came in the 02-04 RSX type-s, K24A2's came in ALL 03-08 TSX so hence more motors lol
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