thanks bro!
now i saved a couple of $$$ for installation
I copied and pasted this from a small local import forum. I pm'ed the link to "Chad" and he said I should post it. It's not SUPER in depth, but I can answer any questions about this install you may have. If you have negative comments, please pm them to me instead of getting rude in the thread. This is to give folks an idea of what/can be done. Thanks.
Being on vacation, I finally had time to do my eptree with the new Viper 5701. Here's a pic of the minivan all cleaned up:
So, here's a pic of the new keypad next to the Viper 5900/Python 990/Clifford 50.x. The Viper 5701 is the skinny one....nice difference.
The brain layout is different than usual, and it caused me some minor issues. I usually use Viper 5900s, Python 990s, or Clifford 50.5xs to do this style of alarm. They have seperate relay packs which extend the wires about 3 feet further.
Here's the brain:
Since the minivan has a factory immobilizer, it needed a DEI 556U for the remote start to crank.
The way it works is, you insert a coded key into the unit and it "reads" the key. ONLY a factory coded key will work. The soccer van came with 3 keys, so losing one was no big deal.
Before I sealed everything back up I put the key in the grinder and filed some of the key off, making it unusable. I did this so if a theif was to break in and find the box, the key would not do anything.
This alarm setup has a tilt sensor and backup battery. I also used a relay to make the horn honk when triggered and a relay to make the headlights flash when triggered.
The alarm in the car:
Wired up with all the relays:
Now, here's where it whipped my ass. Normally I can tap into most of my wires in the bundle that runs down the side of the car.
Not this time.
There is NO factory wiring on this side of the car....period. So, I had to extend and solder EVERY wire...I was not happy. I have never had to do this before, so it really added a bunch of time to this. Here's some pics of the bundling and cabling:
I grabbed most of my wires at the factory alarm harness:
Using a relay I made the clutch bypass:
I added 2 relays up here. One is for the sunroof. I can vent and close the sunroof from the key pad. The other relay is for the second accesory wire. After reading the owner's manual, I could have done without this, as the alarm has a programable wire for this application. Oh well...
This is the "leash" for the 556U I was taling about earlier. This goes around the key cylinder to send signal to the immobilizer.
Under dash shots with everything loomed. You really can't tell from these pics, but it looks pretty stock up there.:
I love the new slimmer keypad. The battery is supposed to last 5-6 months compared to 1 month on the older ones. This alarm is designed to work with 5 speeds, and there is a procedure to insure the car is not in gear before activating the remote start.
Enjoy!
thanks bro!
now i saved a couple of $$$ for installation
imo, remote start is useless, especially since i leave my car in gear when i park. if you can imagine how bad of a day i'd have if i forgot i left it in gear and started it up inside the garage.
My cars stay in the garage at home, but when i go to work, they stay outside. It's great to go out to a cool car int hye summer and a warm car in the winter.
The Viper 5701 I used is MADE for 5 sppeds and has a few measures in place to make sure you dont launch the car.
Thanks for the pictures. They Helped. I installed my Clifford G5 series. Its almost identical (being a sister company). And I used the "PKH34 Honda & Acura Transponder Data Override" instead of the 556u which stored my transponder signal so I didn't have to give up one of my two keys. Thanks for the DIY!
Good right up again you put the best stuff on the sight thanks again man.
Thanks for the write up!
It was helpful when I installed my Zenesis Alarm. One question though, do you know where the factory disarm wire is or should i just disable the factory alarm all together?
You don't need to disarm it if there is not one there.
According to directechs (DEI's wire site) it says the only way to disarm and arm the factory alarm is with the keypad.
All of the alarm wiring for the aftermarket alarm is done at the OEM alarm plug. If it was me.....just unplug the factory alarm and use the aftermarket.
I need help with the PKH34 it won't program for me so when I do go to remote start the car it just lights up the dash lights and well it won't let the car start. I wired in the right wires but I'll try again.
Put the key in the ignition.
Try remote starting it.
If it starts, you have a problem with programming.
If it does'nt start, you have issues somewhere else...
You know how you have to do the press brake lift ebrake left off brake.Then i hit remote start on the remote take key out car stays running and then I arm the system and the car shuts off.
Now when I try to remote start it all the dash lights up like its trying to start which makes me think that its the bypass kit not working.
I try to program it but it won't work so I'm going to desolder the bypass kit and wire it up again and see. I have everything else a clutch bypass relay the foot brake wired up and e brake and all starter and ignition and acc wires wired up.
VegaS10, can you be more specific how the alarm "knows" the car is in gear?
Is there a microswitch you have to place that is actuated when the shifter is in first?
Also, where do you get your alarms from? I've been wanting to do my own since I don't trust installers to do a good job but I read you lose your warranty if it isn't installed by a "trained technician".
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