Ingalls/ spc is good I have T1R which has done me right. Its all the same really. -1.75 is pretty close to where you want to be at any way. Just get the front set to about -3. camber bolts are cheap.
Got my car back yesterday. The ride is a little bit harsher than I was expecting but still not punishing. I'm very happy with the improved handling.
Question: before the alignment, the rear camber was about -1.85 on both sides. They were able to reduce that to -1.75, which is still out of spec, obviously. I just got the car 3 weeks ago, so I don't really know the history, but the rear tires don't appear to be wearing unevenly. But I do want to to this correctly, so I'm guessing that I should be upgrading to adjustable arms to get everything correct? If so, does anyone have a favorite from what's available. Thanks in advance.
Ingalls/ spc is good I have T1R which has done me right. Its all the same really. -1.75 is pretty close to where you want to be at any way. Just get the front set to about -3. camber bolts are cheap.
Thanks. Yeah, I did some digging here and Club EP3 and there are several people in the same boat. Think I'll leave the rear, and see about the fronts. In the meantime, the rotors are damn rusty, so I'll be replacing all four corners soon. Thinking Hawk HPS and some cryo rotors, nothing too exciting. Maybe give Brian at Fastbrakes a call; Wilwoods in red sure are pretty...
glad to hear you're liking the aspecs. Do you have an 02/03 or an 04/05? IIRC, if you have 5 lug you can always upgrade the rotors and calipers for dc5s ones. I'll have an extra set of dc5s calipers available soon if you're interested. I just need to rebuild the ep3r ones and get them painted again.
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DC5s setup is great. I really enjoyed the difference.
I've got an 04; just spent 15 mins looking for how to add a siggy, but can't find it. Are siggies allowed as soon as someone joins, or is there a minimum post count that's required?
As for the DC5S calipers, let me know when they're available. I may be interested; am fighting myself right now with trying to keep this as stock as possible, and losing badly.
It might be for paying members. I used to have it but not any more.
I finally got around to getting my 05-06 A-spec sport suspension kit installed a few weeks ago. My shop shaved down the rear bushings so they would clear, and ordered type-s front tie-rod end links. I got it aligned and it rides pretty good. All of the noises I had with the koni's when turning the steering wheel have been completely eliminated. It is really a sweet ride even though I drive it about once a week. The car has Type-S brakes, drive shafts, and hubs to go with my new setup and feels pretty solid.
those that have the A-spec kit more than a year, any sag on the rears? I remember my Tokico/Tein setup started sagging in the rears and hated it lol... how are they holding up now? and ultimately, would you do it again... I'm considering a new suspension setup as close to stock with a slight drop as possible for my DD...
I have everything ready to install A-spec on my ep3(including the pdf of the a-spec install) and I have a couple of questions:
1. How do I load the suspension with the weight of the vehicle so I can torque if I'm doing the job on jack stands?
In the pdf says NOT to jack on the flat part of the control arm,
2.So I guess with a 2x4 piece in between the jack and the rotor would be ok ? ( I would do this on both sides at the same time so it would load even)
I had a BAD experience when I installed the control arm bushings, I tried loading the vehicle weight with the jack right before the ball joint on the control arm. Well the ball joint popped off the knucle on the second one. So I want to be sure how do I properly do this ???????
If you're doing this in your garage I would suggest you support the car with some sturdy jack stands by the lift point on the underside of the car and use a floorjack with wood as a buffer. To torque the bolts with the suspension preloaded, use a floor jack with a short section of 2x4. Turn the 2x4 on its long side so it's more stable. When I do this at work I typically let the 2x4 rest on the studs. I never put the full weight of the car rest on the studs. The suspension should only need to compress an inch or two and the jack stands should always be in contact with the lift points. I only put enough weight to be sure that the bolts get tightened with the correct preload.
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Thanks to this thread I was able to get my Mugen SS installed. They no longer make the Mugen SS for the EP3 so I had to buy the DC5 one and this was exactly what I needed. Thanks again!
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