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  1. #1
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    Thumbs up 6 Speed - Installed

    ** If pics don't show up, you may have to right click the red x and choose "Show Picture", or wait a bit and then try right clicking again :winkm: **


    I've had my 6 speed installed for about 3 weeks now, it definitely improves the performance of the Si. Acceleration is better, it wakes up the performance of this car. You end up spending more time in the upper rpm range. What it also does is reveal the low redline of the engine, the A3 needs a higher redline because it's so willing to rev. Because I couldn't work on the swap non-stop from beginning to end, it took me a few weekends and long weeknights to finish it. I was also finishing up my 5 lug swap at the same time. Here's some basics of the swap. It's a complete bolt on, remove and replace. Simple in concept, only very labor intensive. To begin, everything has to come off from above and below the engine.


    Last edited by cpu519; 10-14-2008 at 02:43 PM.

  2. #2
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    If you're squeamish, turn away now! The subframe has to come off after making reference marks. I'm going to have the subframe aligned with the chassis once I know I won't be removing it again.

    Last edited by cpu519; 04-24-2004 at 10:37 AM.

  3. #3
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    I don't have any more pics of the actual bolt-in, I was working at 1:00 am. Here's the only visual difference of the Type S trans, the reverse lock out solenoid. The Si doesn't have this so there's nothing to connect here, doesn't harm anything leaving it disconnected.

    Last edited by cpu519; 04-24-2004 at 10:38 AM.

  4. #4
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    Once everything is bolted up and connected, the shifter mechanism has to modified. Here's a pic of the shifter lever that has to come out in order to shave it down. It's the lever on the right. There's a shaft going through the center of the spring. The lever is held on with a one-way spring washer on the end of the shaft. I used a tiny dremel cut off wheel to cut a slit in the washer, that loosened it so I could take it apart. The alternative is to take apart the dash.

    Last edited by cpu519; 04-24-2004 at 10:39 AM.

  5. #5
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    Once I got the spring washer off, the lever comes off by pushing the shaft through enough to clear the lever. Here's what the lever looks like before shaving it. The hump on the bottom needs to be clearanced.

    Last edited by cpu519; 04-24-2004 at 10:40 AM.

  6. #6
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    Here's the lever after shaving it. The reason it needs to be shaved is that 6th gear now takes the place where reverse used to be and the shift lever doesn't move far enough downward to engage reverse. The lever hits the shifter frame. I experimented with how much needs to be removed, this amount will allow full reverse engagement.

    Last edited by cpu519; 04-24-2004 at 10:41 AM.

  7. #7
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    I was able to reuse the spring washer to hold the lever in place. Honda doesn't sell the part separately so I'm currently looking for one at hardware supply companies like McMaster-Carr. Once the shifter is done, that's pretty much it. It's a very involved swap, I would say it would have taken me about 10 -12 hours to do the swap non-stop. I had to use an engine hoist to hold the motor up. Once the motor was up it was placed on blocks. Then I used the hoist to install the tranny.

    If you've ever installed a trans before, you know to be careful not to allow the trans to rest with the input shaft inserted into the clutch. If that happens, the clutch disc might bend and then it won't disengage properly. That isn't that much of a concern here because the input shaft is very short, you pretty much have to align the bellhousing with the engine instead of using the input shaft to center things up.

    I was going to install a Type S OEM clutch and flywheel, but I found that the Si uses the same flywheel. I thought the Type S would have a lighter flywheel. I did find the Type S pressure plate was about 1/2 pound lighter, but I didn't use it because it was doweled to the flywheel for balancing purposes. I ended up using my original clutch and flywheel. With only 6700 miles, it was still like new.

    Last edited by cpu519; 10-02-2003 at 08:57 AM.

  8. #8
    Reborn !@#$%'s Avatar
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    that is some really useful information. Nobody has yet to actually pictorially describe what the hell shaving the shift mech was. thanks. I understand one more step to swapping the k20a2 myself. :)

  9. #9
    I got an idea... cpu519's Avatar
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    I would have to say the shifter mod is the part that really required me to think hard. I searched the web and looked at Sport Compact Car magazine's swap article and couldn't get a clear understanding of what had to be modded. But once I had everything together I saw what needed to be done. It took some work getting the shift lever out. Be careful taking the shift boot dash cover out, the clips at the top right and left hold it in there very securely. I popped out the top right and found out how it was held. Then I used a small screwdriver wrapped in tape to carefully pry out the top left. After the cover was out, I looked carefully at it and found a hairline crack in the top right. Be careful!

  10. #10
    ephatch member hondafiend02's Avatar
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    you are my idle!

  11. #11
    ephatch member
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    idle? wtf

  12. #12
    I heart 9,500 RPM CgSi's Avatar
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    I vote for a spelling/grammar checker !







    THE ALL NEW AMERICAN IDLE !



    Sunday @ 9:00pm


    Don't miss it !

  13. #13
    ephatch member 02SilverSiHB's Avatar
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    Originally posted by cpu519
    I would have to say the shifter mod is the part that really required me to think hard. I searched the web and looked at Sport Compact Car magazine's swap article and couldn't get a clear understanding of what had to be modded. But once I had everything together I saw what needed to be done. It took some work getting the shift lever out. Be careful taking the shift boot dash cover out, the clips at the top right and left hold it in there very securely. I popped out the top right and found out how it was held. Then I used a small screwdriver wrapped in tape to carefully pry out the top left. After the cover was out, I looked carefully at it and found a hairline crack in the top right. Be careful!
    yeah, I've always been confused, until now with that pic. Great job man!

  14. #14
    Registered User 9092002SI's Avatar
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    so cal

    hey where in so cal you from?

  15. #15
    zzzzzz myeverlovinsir's Avatar
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    Great Post! Thanks for the info and putting up the pics of the shaved shifter. Have you had a chance to take it to the track yet?
    Wonder how it will fair in 1/4 now?:)

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